Tom C
14 posts
Joined: 15/10/2007 19:34:22
Location: stamford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Faulty ignition switch
Iv recently had problems starting my car and after a full inspction, Iv been recommened changing the ignition switch. iv unplugged it and taken it out of the barrel mount. its got a plastic case rather than a metal one and the other end has round pins in the connector, not the thin spade type. I only want to change this part instead of the whole steering column assmbley as its cheaper!! please can someone point me in the right direction as to where to buy a new one. its an '82 mayfair. many thanx!
Posted: Sep 12, 2010 04:27 PM
Rob
34 posts
Joined: 17/09/2004 20:29:45
Location: Wellingborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fuel pump running when ignition switched off
Hi
my daughter runs a Mini Equinox SPi 1996 and a few days ago she noticed that the electric fuel pump in the tank appeared to be running intermitently after the vehicle had been parked up for a while. The car runs fine and I cannot think of any reason why this could happen as presumably the fuel pump should only operate when the ignition is switched on and it is receiving power via the relay under the bonnet. It was a very hot day and the car had been standing in the sun, so is it possible that the pump was running to release expansion gasses in the tank or something like that?
Workshop manuals have been no help, and I have not been able to get this to happen while I've been listening.
Any ideas? Thanks Rob
Posted: Mar 28, 2012 09:37 AM
dunejunkie1994
1 posts
Joined: 14/01/2014 07:29:25
Location: Scottsdale United States
Ignition switch for Innocenti Mini 1300
Hello all!
I have a 1974 Innocenti 1300. The ignition switch is totally destroyed and I need a replacement. For the time being, I've been using a universal ignition switch from the auto parts store. The original switch had blades on the back that all of the wires connected to. Would the spi ignition from minispares work in place? (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Switches,%20stalks/BHM7107.aspx?0912&ReturnUrl=/Default.aspx|Back%20to%20home)
the wires seem a bit small and I'm not sure exactly how they connect to the harness or if they just have a basic ACC, IGN,PWR, and Start for the 4 wires. I also don't know if it will fit with the existing cowling. Any help will be appreciated.
Posted: Oct 26, 2015 07:50 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi, Looks like you need the 18G8892 steering lock unit but these are no longer available.
You are going to have to install a later steering column or bide your time until something comes up on ebay by the look of it.
Try contacting Somerford Mini to see if they can suggest an alternative.
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=86
Posted: Oct 29, 2015 12:32 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
No power to coil?
Possibly the ignition switch itself, or the wires leading to it.
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 06:32 AM
Starting Problems
In general, the ignition feed is direct from the battery to the coil, via the ignition switch - there is no fuse or control box involved. If youve got other electrical problems its 9 times out of 10 dirty fuses and/or in-line connectors. Its possible your coil is fitted with a ballast resistor (dont know when or if these were fitted to minis), in which case the wiring at the ignition switch is more complicated. WHen the switch is in the starter position, the resistor is bypassed, sending maximum volts to the coil. In the normal run position, the resistor is engaged, so reducing the volts. I suppose a fault in the resistor could result in too little voltage at the coil. In any event, your plan to bypass the ignition switch altogether seems a good one.
Posted: Mar 29, 2006 05:05 PM
stuart
2 posts
Joined: 08/10/2004 11:28:31
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
push starter
if its a two pin push button you need a pemanant live one side and the switch live to to starter the other both can be found under ther colum surround if you do it this way you will need to have the ignition swithed on or put another switch for the ignition live and fuel pump if electric not mechanical or the car will not fire
Posted: Mar 13, 2005 05:23 PM
l. boddy
12 posts
Joined: 03/06/2006 15:49:05
Location: wisbech United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini comp starter
hi all have brought rallye type starter switch the one with a flip up switch for ignition and push button starter to replace key ignition does anyone know what wires from orig switch goes to where on new one cheers
Posted: Jun 04, 2006 10:45 AM
Mk1RubyTurbo
Joined: 02/08/2012 10:33:53
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Ignition
Is it possible to disconnect, remove the ignition switch from the steering column and fit as enter key ignition to the dash switch panel. Wondered if it will affect the steering lock ?
Posted: May 06, 2014 06:31 PM
aircraft style starter
hi thanks for replys i want flick switch to control ignition on and then push button to start it i know the brown is permantely live will check rest
Posted: Jun 07, 2006 08:42 PM
battery trouble
First the obvious: does the ignition light come on when you switch the ignition on, and go out when the engine's running?
Posted: Oct 11, 2006 05:33 PM
Leonard
95 posts
Joined: 10/11/2004 19:56:22
Location: Stroud United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
poor running
another sign of the wrong fuel is that the engine might sometimes run for a couple of seconds after the ignition has been switched off
Posted: Dec 13, 2004 06:29 PM
Urgent Mini 35 starter circuit probs
I got my daughters 35 out of the garage this morning to do a couple of little jobs. It started ok and ran well.
After changing the plug leads and replacing the electric fan relay, she will not start at all. There is battery voltage at the solonoid on the starter, but when I turn the key, the ignition and oil lights fail to come on (bulbs are ok) and there is no click from the solonoid. All the items which normally work without the ignition being switched on are working as normal, so the battery would appear to be OK. It seems that there is no power getting to the ignition switch via the brown lead from the solonoid, although from the wiring diagram, i would expect the brown lead at the ignition switch to be showing 12 volts. I have tried a new ignition switch but it is just the same. There do not appear to be any blown fuses anywhere and I am at a loss as to whats happened.
Any ideas??
Thanks
Edit; just to add that the engine turns over fine when I bridge the solonoid contacts, and I have changed the starter relay with one that I know to be good, but I still cannot get any voltage at the orange and brown wire to the solonoid switch.
Posted: May 21, 2009 05:57 PM
Lights and Horn do not work and engine wont stay running
Hi, You say it starts but won't run. I'm guessing you mean that it spins over on the starter but won't fire but lets go to basics and work up from there.
Battery in boot has thick black cable under car to starter solenoid on clutch housing. This should be connected to the same bolt down terminal as the brown wires that run to the alternator and ignition switch in the column. A second thick black cable runs from the other bolt down terminal to the starter motor. There is a small tab that should have a white/red cable on it - this runs to the ignition switch. When you turn the switch it connects the live brown supply to the white/red cable and energises the solenoid to activate the starter motor. If the engine spins over then this lots should be ok.
You then have the low tension ignition circuit that controls the spark from the coil. On the "-ve" tab for the coil should be a white/black thin wire that runs to the side of the distributor and connects to the points wire coming through a small rubber grommet. On the "+ve" side of the coil is a thin white wire that goes back to fuse #1 in the fuse box, which in turn is linked to the white cable on the ignition switch and is the power feed to the low tension circuit. Check fuse #1 for corrosion or just plain missing. This fuse also controls the hazards and brake lights.
On the high tension circuit you have the coil - it has a single thick cable that goes to the middle pole of the distributor cap. From there you have 4 leads, one to each spark plug. Yoo can find other postings on this website where the firing order is listed or you can locate images on google to check yours hasn't been messed around.
Earthing strap is normally between the clutch housing and inner righthand wing and looks like a piece of wire rope with electrical tags on each end - because that's basically what it is but made of tinned brass.
Try these and let us know how it goes.
Posted: Apr 03, 2014 09:38 AM
Clubman22
4 posts
Joined: 11/10/2012 17:08:03
Location: High Wycombe United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine cuts out when you let go of the ignition key
Have an 85 Auto Mayfair.Engine will start when key is turned/held to Position 3 but cuts out when key is released (back to position 2). Not isolator switch otherwise engine would not turn over. I've checked both Low & High tension sides including Distributor, ignition leads,spark plugs, coil, rotor arm,points, condensor & solenoid.All check out ok & have a good spark also fuel supply is ok.I'm now in the process of checking out fuses & connections. Rear loom (tail,brake, indicator & reversing lights) doesn't have any power.Could it be ignition switch related. Any thoughts. Thanks
Posted: Jun 21, 2021 03:18 PM
Brake failure switch
Normally, all that switch does is check that the lamp works - it's not checking the brake fluid level, that circuit is live all the time the ignition is on. You will need to remove the switch, clean the contacts and if necessary replace the little bulb inside
Posted: Oct 08, 2014 02:03 PM
Brake light, indicators, hazards and reverse lights all not working
I know I'm a bit late to this, but I had exactly the same issue on my SPi Equinox today. Turned out to be the reversing light switch was shorting and blowing fuse number 2 in the 21 fuse box as soon as the ignition was turned on. Hence no reversing lights, indicators or brake lights. New switch on order, current one disconnected so at least the car can be driven, albeit with no reversing lights.
Posted: Mar 22, 2017 04:24 PM